Remove both pedals (remember: left pedal is reverse threaded — turn clockwise to remove, counter-clockwise to tighten). Clean the threads on both pedal axles and the crank arm threads. Apply a generous amount of anti-seize grease or copper grease to the pedal threads — this prevents galling and makes future removal possible. Torque to 35 Nm. A squeaking or clicking noise from a pedal that stops when you stand still strongly suggests the pedal threads.

If you ride clipless pedals, worn or mis-adjusted cleats creak on every pedal stroke. The metal-on-metal interface between cleat and pedal body wears and develops play. Apply a small amount of dry lube to the cleat engagement surfaces. If the creak persists, replace the cleats — they're cheap and wear out every 6–12 months of regular use.

Remove the seatpost, clean it thoroughly, and apply fresh grease to the seatpost tube and collar area before reinserting (carbon posts and frames: use carbon assembly paste, not grease — it provides friction without the clamping force needed for grease). Saddle rail clamps should be torqued correctly (5–8 Nm typically) — under-torqued rails flex and creak. Apply a drop of grease to the points where the rails contact the saddle clamp jaws.

Creaks from the front of the bike during out-of-saddle efforts can be the headset or stem. Check headset preload — hold the front brake and rock the bike forward: any clunking indicates insufficient preload. Tighten the stem cap bolt (usually 4–5 Nm) to add preload, then re-tighten stem clamp bolts. Grease the stem steerer interface and stem faceplate bolt threads.

Remove the crank bolt using an 8mm Allen key (Shimano Hollowtech II) or the appropriate tool for your system. Shimano cranks then pull off by hand — there's a plastic cap that screws off (counter-clockwise), exposing the pinch bolts, which you loosen with a 5mm Allen key before pulling the non-drive crank arm off and sliding the spindle through. GXP cranks use a different extraction method — consult the specific manual for SRAM GXP cranksets.

Use the correct BB cup tool for your standard. Threads of a BSA BB: drive side (right) is reverse-threaded — turn clockwise to loosen. Non-drive side (left) is normal — turn counter-clockwise to loosen. If the cups feel rough or notchy when you spin them, the bearings are worn or contaminated. Spin each cup by hand — smooth sealed bearings should spin freely with minimal resistance.

Clean the BB shell thoroughly. If you have a BB thread tap, run it through both sides — this removes corrosion and burrs that cause creaking. Apply fresh grease liberally to the cup threads and the face of the shell (the flat surface where the cup seats against the frame). Torque the cups firmly — most threaded BBs spec 35–50 Nm. Under-torqued cups work loose and creak.

A proper press-fit removal tool is essential — improvised methods (hammers, drifts) damage the shell. After removal, inspect the shell interior for fretting (circular wear marks). Minor fretting can be filled with retaining compound (Loctite 603 or equivalent) during reinstallation. Severe fretting requires a specialist to fit threaded inserts.

If your press-fit BB creaks repeatedly, the most permanent fix is a threaded bottom bracket insert — a machined aluminium sleeve that is bonded into the press-fit shell and provides threaded cups. Wheels Manufacturing and Enduro make reliable conversion kits. This is a permanent modification but eliminates press-fit creaking entirely. It requires a press tool and ideally a professional installation the first time.