Tires
Tire Pressure
Tire pressure is one of the most impactful and most overlooked tuning variables on any bike. Too high and you lose grip, feel every bump, and fatigue faster. Too low and you risk pinch flats, sluggish handling, or damaging your rims. The right pressure depends on your weight, tire size, and riding discipline — a road sprinter and an enduro rider on the same tire width need very different numbers.
🔍 Don't know your bike weight?
Look up a common bike to auto-fill the weight field.
Listed weights are manufacturer-published figures for stock builds and may vary significantly based on component spec, wheel choice, added accessories (pedals, bottles, bags, computer mounts), frame size, and year-to-year model changes. Always weigh your actual bike for the most accurate result.
?Your body weight alone — don't add gear or the bike here. Heavier riders need higher pressure to support the load without bottoming out the tire.
?Weight of your bike including any cargo, bags, or accessories. A road bike typically weighs 7–10 kg. A mountain bike 12–16 kg.
?The width printed on your tire sidewall — e.g. a 700×40 tire is 40mm wide, a 29×2.35" MTB tire is roughly 60mm. Wider tires run lower pressure for the same ride feel.
?Clincher = standard inner tube. Tubeless = no tube, sealant inside — can safely run 10–15% lower pressure. Tubulars are glued-on race tires.
?Match this to your primary discipline. Road riders run the highest pressures for low rolling resistance. MTB enduro runs the lowest for maximum grip.
Front Tire
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Rear Tire
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Wheels
Spoke Tension
Spoke tension determines how well your wheel holds its shape under load, cornering forces, and the stresses of braking. Too little and spokes can fatigue, loosen, or allow the rim to flex out of true. Too much and you risk cracking eyelets or snapping spokes. The right range depends on wheel position, spoke thickness, and material.
?Front wheels are evenly dished. Rear wheels are asymmetric — drive-side spokes (near the cassette) must be tighter to center the rim.
?Thicker spokes (2.0mm / 14g) are stronger and common on touring and MTB builds. Lighter 1.8mm spokes are used on performance road wheels.
?Stainless steel is standard and durable. Aero/bladed spokes can handle slightly higher tension. Titanium spokes are lighter but require lower max tension.
Target Tension Range
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Tubeless
Tubeless Sealant
Tubeless sealant automatically seals punctures as they happen — often before you notice. Getting the amount right matters: too little and sealant can't coat the tire walls; too much adds unnecessary rotational weight. The right quantity depends on your tire's internal volume, riding conditions, and brand.
?The width from your tire sidewall. Wider tires have more internal volume and need more sealant.
?700c (road/gravel) and 29" MTB use the same 622mm bead diameter. 650b (27.5") is common on modern gravel and trail bikes.
?Rocky and thorny terrain creates more puncture risk — use more sealant. Wet conditions also cause faster evaporation of water-based sealants.
?Select "Both tires" to see the total amount for a full tubeless conversion.
Tire Internal Volume (per tire)
—ml
Recommended amount by brand (per tire)
Drivetrain
Gear Ratio
Your gear ratio determines how far your bike travels with each pedal revolution — the fundamental math behind climbing ability, top speed, and pedaling efficiency. Enter a target ratio to find all chainring and sprocket combinations that achieve it.
?The large cog attached to your cranks (front). Count the teeth or check the stamp. Road: 50–53T. Gravel: 38–42T. MTB 1x: 28–34T.
?The cog on your rear wheel. Larger = easier climbing.
?Larger wheels travel farther per rotation, so gear development changes with wheel size.
?Enter a decimal ratio you want to hit (e.g. 2.2 for climbing, 3.0 for balanced) and see all combinations that come close.
Gear Ratio
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Development
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Gain Ratio
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Cadence
Speed & Cadence
Cadence — how fast you spin the pedals — is one of the biggest factors in riding efficiency and long-term joint health. Most road and gravel riders find their sweet spot between 80–95 RPM. This calculator shows your exact speed at any cadence and gear combination.
?Number of teeth on your front chainring.
?Number of teeth on the rear cog currently engaged.
?How many times you complete a full pedal revolution per minute. 90 RPM is efficient for most riders.
?Distance your tire travels in one full rotation. Common values: 700×28 ≈ 2133mm, 700×40 ≈ 2240mm, 29×2.1 ≈ 2288mm.
Speed
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Speed (mph)
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Gear Ratio
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Dist / Stroke
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Power
Power & Watts
Power output is the universal language of cycling performance. Aerodynamic drag is the dominant force at speed; gravity takes over on climbs. This calculator breaks your total power demand into its three components.
?Watts scale with the cube of speed — going from 25 to 35 km/h roughly doubles power required against air resistance.
?Your body weight + bike + any gear. Total system weight matters most on climbs.
?Slope of the road. 0% = flat. 5% = moderate climb. 10%+ = steep. Negative = descending.
?Your frontal area and drag (CdA). Riding in the drops or on a TT bike dramatically cuts drag.
Total Power
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Aero Drag
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Rolling Resistance
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Gravity
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Elevation
Climbing Calculator
Climbing is where the physics of cycling become impossible to ignore — every kilogram, every watt, and every percentage of gradient shows up in your finishing time. VAM (vertical meters per hour) is the standard benchmark used across all disciplines, from gran fondos to Grand Tour stages.
?Total vertical meters gained on the climb. Find this on Strava, Komoot, or a topo map.
?The road distance of the climb. Combined with elevation gain, this determines average gradient.
?Total system weight: you + bike + everything you're carrying. Every extra kg costs real watts on a climb.
?Sustainable watts you can hold for the climb. Recreational: 100–180W. Competitive: 260W+. Your FTP minus ~5% is a good estimate.
Avg. Gradient
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Est. Time
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VAM
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Calories
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